What a great rest we had here in the Urbana hotel. Simon was right, it is a hidden gem. They had a fabulous breakfast laid out for us. I say us because we never saw another sole in the hotel. We ate until we couldn't hold anymore and left after 8am. We followed the VF signs up to the fortress overlooking the town and lake. The day was beautiful and sunny but there was the hint of fall in the wind. The walk was downhill pretty much and flat all the way to Viterbo. The farmers are planting winter crops and doing their summer fallow. They use a lot of small caterpillar tractors for their field work as well as the standard tractors. We passed a hot spring along the way. As soon as I went to go in, someone came out indicating that I would have to pay. One of the people standing around showed me where I could use a free pool. The water coming out of the ground was extremely hot but the pool it flowed into was just warm. I took off my boots and socks to see what is was like. There were a lot of German tourists there in their caravans, basking in the hot pools. Viterbo is another walled city and we are booked into a pilgrim ospital La Toretta which is located literally in the inner surrounding wall. Maria and her husband are very pilgrim friendly and accommodating. They usually make a communal meal in the evening but with just C and I here, it is not worth their while. They charged us 10E each for staying here and gave us a key to get in and out. We came here more on the recommendation shown in the CPR accomodation listing which called it one of the better stays. Well for us it is just okay. The people are nice but really you should have your own sleeping bag here, which we don't. I am sure when a group of young people are here in the summer it could be a fun place to stay. Breakfast is minimal and the toilets have no seats on them. Strange how you get used to toilet seats. Even another broken one would have been okay. This is their last day to be open for this year as it closes on October 31st. We have bought our own breakfast stuff as we need more than just coffee and a bun in plastic in the morning. We also hit the tourist office for a little English on getting us on the right street in the morning and then we walked it for a kilometre just to make sure we get started right in the morning. Getting out of the cities can be confusing at times with the traffic and signage. I can remember when we started walking how great it would be to see the roads built by the Romans. Now we walk along Roman roads without any fuss at all. This is a very big holiday weekend for the Italians as well as being Halloween. There is an abundance of flowers on busy corners and in front of the cemeteries for the people to purchase and put on the graves in remembrance of their family members who have passed away. We have lined up a13E three course restaurant meal for tonight. Tomorrow is more climbing up around a volcano rim on forest trails.